Winter for me is the best time to dress when it comes to menswear. Coats, scarves, heavier fabrics, jumpers, the list goes on. It is a great opportunity for layering and exploring heavier weight fabrics, especially when it comes to suits.
For the majority of the year, a lightweight wool or heavy cotton suit is a perfect fabric. That being said, there are a few months of the year where here in al' Blighty it gets rather chilly... Whilst a lot of people loath the colder and darker days; and seek shelter in the comfort of their warm homes, I think it presents a perfect opportunity to get out and about in some great winter tailoring. So, with that being said, here is a short guide to the best fabrics to keep you toasty for the cold months.
Corduroy
Corduroy is fantastic, hard wearing, surprisingly versatile, and injects a subtle touch of character into your outfit. One other huge benefit of corduroy is that it is virtually crease-proof. Now, whilst corduroy is certainly a casual material, there are ways in which it can be worn more formally, needlecord being one of them. Needlecord is not only lighter than corduroy, it also has much finer ribs than its heavier cousin. Needlecord is the perfect way to achieve versatility without skirting too far into casual. Irrespective of which 'cord' you choose, more neutral colours such as navy or brown are the best way to maintain some sartorial elegance whilst injecting a hint of pizazz into your winter wardrobe.
Tweed
Synonymous with heritage and sophistication, tweed is a woven fabric that originated in Scotland. Its characteristic rough texture comes from the use of different coloured yarns, creating a unique and visually interesting pattern. Tweed is naturally warm and water-resistant, making it ideal for colder climates. It's also incredibly durable, able to withstand wear and tear. Tweed suits are often associated with a more traditional style, but they can be dressed up or down depending on the cut and colour.
Whether it is a more formal tweed three-piece suit or a tweed blazer, both are a fantastic item to have in your arsenal for smart-casual winter parties or the Sunday afternoon pub visit.
Twill
Now, I fully appreciate that twill is not technically a winter fabric. Twill is a perfect material for an autumnal or early spring suit. It is usually a medium-weight material making it incredibly versatile, and with the weave being formed from a diagonal pattern, it drapes superbly. This means that a twill suit would fit perfectly under a lovely raglan overcoat or mackintosh in the colder months. The real reason why I am adding this is in the hopes that there are people reading this who are inflicted by the same problem. I run very hot as a person. This means that whilst I wrap up warm in the winter with a suit and maybe even a vest under an overcoat, I get very, very hot as soon as I have acclimatised again. This makes for some pretty sweaty days at the office after the morning commute.
This brings in the benefit of twill. As I mentioned it is medium weight, which means that it keeps you warm enough whilst not turning you into a sweaty puddle with your overcoat on.
Flannel
Flannel is simply, wool. The key difference is that flannel is more loosely woven compared to wool.
This means that flannel has a texture that adds a touch of the 'je ne sais quas' to your ensemble. The brushed surface of flannel creates a fuzzy texture that feels incredibly cozy against the skin. Flannel suits are known for their comfort and warmth, making them ideal for casual wear.
They're also surprisingly versatile, and can be dressed up for more formal occasions with the right tie and pair of shoes. Again, my bias towards navy would have me leaning towards this as the colour choice, but grey, black or even green are also wonderful options for this time of year.
Beyond the Fabric
When choosing a winter suit, it's important to consider more than just the fabric. The lining, the cut, and the colour all play a role in how the suit will look and feel. In order to maximise the experience, opt for a suit with a fully lined interior. This will provide additional warmth and comfort, especially on colder days. The cut of the suit is also, always of crucial importance. Especially with regards to a few of the more casual-leaning fabrics that I have spoken about. An easy way to elevate the formality of a needlecord suit for example would be to opt for a tailored fit. This will ensure that the suit still looks sharp enough for work, but could still be dressed down when worn as separates. Finally, consider the colour of the suit. Darker colours, such as navy, charcoal, and brown, are classic choices for winter. However, don't be afraid to experiment with bolder colours and patterns, especially if you're looking for a more contemporary look.