I have been deeply passionate about men's style and tailoring for as long as I can remember; a passion that was inherited from my impeccably dressed father. While brands like M&S and TM Lewin served me well during my school days and early career, my fascination with tailoring soon outgrew them.
My suit-wearing journey began in Lower 6th. Although our school uniform consisted of a decent dark grey, navy, or black trouser and navy blazer, it didn't allow me to showcase my personal style – my love for suits, ties, pocket squares, and all things sartorial. While most students merely swapped their uniform for a suit, I viewed it as an opportunity to infuse a touch of individuality and pride into my daily attire.
My quest for quality tailoring really took off with the help of a brand called Suit Supply. For those unfamiliar with Suit Supply, they are somewhat of a trailblazer in the world of
accessible tailoring. They offer a unique and impeccably executed blend of off-the-rack and bespoke suits.
Walking into a Suit Supply store feels somewhat like stepping into any other high-street suit shop, with rows and rows of suits in various patterns, cuts, and styles ready to greet you. However, their USP becomes clear as you approach the racks and notice the unfinished sleeves and trouser legs. And it is here where the fun begins… You select your suit from the rack, and their in-house tailors customise it to your preferences, delivering the best of both worlds – a “tailored” suit for the price of one off the peg.
Not only are you able to improve on the regularly ill-fitting department store suit, Suit Supply also have a clear interest in being able to offer something other than the usual navy, grey or black. Now, as an aside, I tend to like suits slightly outside of the norm, and this is what I truly love about Suit Supply, it makes tailoring accessible to both those who are just getting into it (as I was, or those who want their own taste of the tailoring world, but are unable to meet your “Savile Row” price point. It provides that point of difference.
As I am sure many of you reading this can empathise with, whilst the Suit Supply’s of theworld certainly have their place, (and I will continue to be a customer for many years to come, they are merely a stepping stone to the magnificence that is Bespoke Tailoring. As previously mentioned, my first exposure to bespoke tailoring was through my father. Being able to see his true personality shine through the suits that he has had made, really does away with the humdrum stereotype of suit wearers and opened me up to the fun of a suit completely designed by the wearer. I was hooked.
Fast forward to June 2023, and having immersed myself in the world of tailoring, being glued to the coverage of Pitti Uomo, exploring tailors on Savile Row at any given opportunity and devouring every piece of content on the subject over the last 10+ years, the long-awaited moment had arrived – the opportunity to have a bespoke suit tailored for myself. The dream I had harboured for years was finally becoming a reality.
While the allure of Savile Row is undeniable, there undoubtedly comes a premium with a suit from this renowned street. It comes as no surprise, particularly in the context of where you are reading this, that the realm of tailoring extends far beyond the confines of one Central London Street.
One such establishment is Mullen & Mullen. Introduced to me by my father, a longstanding client and friend of the owners. The weeks leading up to my first fitting were all consumed by thoughts of lapel widths, single or double-breasted styles, and a myriad of other intricate details – details, which in retrospect, I may have scrutinised a tad excessively…
The amazing thing about Damien and the team at Mullen & Mullen is that there is no
pretension, whilst you may feel intimidated walking into a ‘historic’ tailor on the Row, and completely out of your depth, there is none of that here. Damien acts almost as a sounding board, and is more than happy to entertain pretty much any idea, whilst also being a voice of reason if he thinks you are straying too far out of your lane. It will come as no surprise to you that I went into my appointment being 99% decided on the full suit and exactly how I wanted it. Damien and I had a very open conversation about my inspiration, possible alternative fabrics, linings etc, and after leaving the initial fitting I had no concern at all that what I had envisioned in my head was going to become a reality. Corny of me I know, but when you are passionate about something like this, this is a dream scenario.
One fitting later and after about an 8-week wait overall, it was collection day. My Father and brother were also collecting suits from Mullen & Mullen at the same time, which made for a very special experience for us all; the cherry on the cake if you will!
Now, to the suit. I actually went into the first appointment with my heart set on a classic, deep navy – my thought process being that if I am going to have one bespoke suit, it might as well be the most versatile option possible. Whilst the final cloth choice is certainly still versatile, I think the lighter shade of blue adds a touch of character. I settled on a blue Plain Smith Woolens Mohair Cloth with an added pink lining for a further touch of fun. The cloth plays with the light beautifully and suffice to say it has had a lot of wear in both the winter and summer months.
For the jacket, I had a very definitive idea in my head, and was not to be swayed. I love a
wide lapel; I think it gives great elegance and completes the look and fit of a suit jacket.
I also, somewhat unusually, went for a single button. Whilst I have no aversion to multiple buttons, being a huge fan and owner of a few double-breasted jackets, I thought the simplicity and clean look of a single button with the wide lapels worked perfectly.
Speaking of simplicity and elegance, I opted for patch pockets, as opposed to the more
traditional flap pockets. Whilst I completely understand the practicality of flap pockets, I personally feel it messes with the clean lines and simplicity of the suit. It is also worth noting that in the traditional sense, patch pockets are typically reserved for more casual jackets - sports coats in particular. A commonly held opinion is that patch pockets make a suit ‘casual’. Whilst I appreciate people may not see them as formal or traditional, I think they just add a touch of character and playfulness.
The trousers were another area where I was pretty set in my ways. I wanted a two-reverse pleated, high-waisted trouser, with hip adjusters and a 2-inch turnup. This combination for me is classic, sophisticated and the subtle details really work when the jacket is left on the back of the chair. Another thing I wanted was buttons in the waistband for braces, as I love the look of braces with a suit. What Damien suggested, which I will forever be grateful for, is what is called a peaked back. As the name suggests, at the centre of the waistband at the back, the trousers extend up into a curved point, where the buttons sit for the braces. The look of these trousers from the back, with braces in, is fantastic, and is a really neat point of difference for a playful touch.
My suit truly is my pride and joy, and whilst I am not currently wearing suits day-to-day, any opportunity I get, it is getting worn. It is light, fits beautifully, and feels exactly as it should, like a glove made perfectly for me. This will certainly not be my last bespoke suit and I cannot wait to dive deeper into the world of tailoring to see to see where it takes me.
Felix