Ask the tailor: What's the difference between bias binding and kick tape?

by Damien Mullen
Photo by Michael

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re explaining all about the difference between kick tape and bias binding… and why it matters.

How carefully have you looked at the inside of your bespoke tailoring? Inner seams are usually neatly finished using bias binding. You’ll also find kick tape being used, usually for trouser hems. 

These things are important as they affect the overall look and feel of your tailoring, as well as how hardwearing they are likely to be over time. 

Why are bias binding and kick tape used in tailoring?

Bias binding and kick tape play slightly different roles in the creation of your tailoring, but they both fit them same general purpose: to neatly finish raw ends and seams of fabric. 

Finishing these areas has the dual purpose of making your suit look neater and stopping the fabric from fraying. 

When is bias binding used?

Bias binding is generally used to enclose inner seams in your tailoring. It can also be used on necklines and for casings and piping. 

When is kick tape used?

Kick tape is used on the hem of your trousers. Generally the tape will be attached so that the finished end of it will sit just below the bottom of the hem and will protect the hems themselves from coming into contact with the floor or your shoes. 

Is there anything you should look out for?

Often, the real sign of quality is in the details. At first glance, it may not seem very important which type of tape or binding is used in your bespoke tailoring. However, inspecting these details more closely can help you to get a feel for how dedicated your tailor is to the pursuit of tailoring perfection! 

Next month we’ll be asking our tailors to give us the lowdown on bespoke shirt care. Sign up to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss it.

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Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.