Ask the tailor: What type of pockets should I choose?

by Damien Mullen
Photo by Michael

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re talking pocket styles. Which type is right for you?

One of the best things about bespoke tailoring is that you get to sign off on every single last detail of your suit. Small details can often have a very big impact, so these decisions will ensure you walk away in a suit that’s exactly what you pictured.

Pockets are important for two key reasons:

  1. They affect the usability of your suit
  2. They affect the look of your suit

If you’re unsure which type of pockets to choose, we’ve set out your choices below. 

Option one: flap pocket

The flap pocket is an integral pocket with the opening covered with a rectangular flap. This a versatile choice. Flap pockets are sensible, practical, and unlikely to attract raised eyebrows. Most off the rack jackets and blazers have this type of pocket.

Option two: patch pocket

Patch pockets are actually the more traditional choice. They consist of an additional piece of fabric sewn to the outside of the garment. They can be any shape, but generally jacket and blazer patch pockets are rectangular. Today, patch pockets are usually considered to be a more casual option. 

Option three: jetted pocket

Jetted pockets are generally found on more formal suit jackets and dinner jackets. This type of pocket is entirely internal, like the flap pocket. However, the key difference here is that jetted pockets don’t have a flap over the opening, resulting in cleaner, sleeker lines. 

Bonus option: ticket pocket

A ticket pocket is an additional pocket found on some suit jackets. Traditionally it sits above the right pocket and is around half as wide. 

Ask the Tailor will return in the new year, where we’ll be explaining the difference between kick tape and bias binding. Sign up to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss it.

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Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.