Ask the Tailor: Should I go Single or Double Breasted?

Photo by Michael

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re talking jacket style: should you opt for single or double breasted?

There are many decisions to make when it comes to designing your perfect tailored jacket. One of the major ones is whether to choose a single breasted or double breasted style.

Single breasted suit jackets have one row of buttons to the front. In a double breasted jacket, the front is cut to overlap in order to accommodate a double row of buttons. The other difference is in the jacket lapels. Though styles here can vary, the majority of single breasted jackets have notched lapels, while most double breasted jackets feature peaked lapels. 

Most contemporary tailored jackets are single breasted, perhaps because this style is easier to wear and suits almost all shapes and sizes. However, that’s not to say that there isn’t still a place for the double breasted jacket. Choosing double buttons can be an excellent way to make a real statement with your suit.

So which one is right for you?

Choose single breasted if…

  • You require a very slim-fitting suit. 
  • You are looking for classic, everyday tailoring.
  • You want to choose a bright, statement fabric.
  • You want the flexibility to wear your jacket with chinos or jeans as well as suit trousers.

Choose double breasted if…

  • You have a medium to large build (double breasted suits can be more flattering on a larger figure).
  • You want your tailoring to stand out.
  • You have chosen a classic fabric in black, grey or navy blue.
  • You want your jacket to have a particularly formal look.
  • You are planning to always wear your jacket with formal suit trousers.
  • You’ve got the confidence and personal style to carry an offbeat look.

Next month we’ll be asking our tailors to share their tips on prolonging the life of your tailoring. Sign up to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss it.