Ask the Tailor: Should I Commission a Two or Three Piece Suit?

by Peter White

Photo by Michael

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re asking whether you should commission a two or three piece suit.

A suit consists of two or three pieces. The jacket and the trousers are necessary parts of the whole, but whether or not you choose to add a waistcoat is up to you. 

Most modern suits do not come with a waistcoat as standard. Whether for the office, weddings, parties or events, most gentlemen feel that a jacket and trousers is formal enough. 

However, waistcoats are far from obsolete. In recent decades this tailoring staple has come back in a very big way, and we’d say that three piece suits are back in favour.

The question of whether you should commission a two or three piece suit depends on a range of factors.

Do you enjoy wearing a waistcoat? 

This one might be a no brainer for you. If you are a big waistcoat fan and wear them often, adding a matching waistcoat to your bespoke suit order is likely to be money well spent. Alternatively, if you rarely wear them, you're unlikely to get much wear out of it.

Do you own a three piece suit already?

There are very few occasions where a three piece suit will be mandatory. If you already have a three piece suit you may not feel that you need another. Of course, we’ll add the caveat here that if you love your three piece suit and wear the trifecta often, you’re likely to love a second three piece suit just as much.

Do you attend a lot of formal occasions?

A waistcoat can be an excellent addition to your look for formal occasions. Not only will it elevate your look from your usual workday outfit, it will also add extra interest and individuality. If you attend a fair number of formal events, you may want to give yourself the option of adding this extra layer of formality to your look.

Still not sure? If in doubt, it may be wise to choose the three piece suit. After all, you don’t always need to wear the waistcoat with the rest of your suit, but it’s great to have the option for occasions when you want to look extra dapper. 

Next month we’ll be asking our tailors to give us the lowdown on super counts. Sign up to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss it.

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Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.