Ask the Tailor: How do Gussets Work?

by Peter White
Photo source

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re talking gussets. What are they, and how do they work?

Within the tailoring industry, we use almost a whole dictionary’s worth of specialist terms. Gusset is a great example of this. 

A gusset refers to a very simple trick with a piece of fabric that can make a big difference to how well your garments fit. Essentially, a gusset is a triangle or rhomboid shaped piece of cloth that is inserted into a seam in order to provide a bit of extra breathing room.

Gussets are most frequently used during alterations. They’re ideal for gentlemen who want to have tailored garments made a little bit bigger. Gussets are often added to shirts, trousers or jackets in order to accommodate a few extra inches belonging to the wearer!

In these instances, the seam of the garment in question is very carefully taken apart, then the gusset fabric is inserted in between the two original pieces. Usually tailors will match the original fabric for the gusset, but they may occasionally opt for a contrast fabric in order to make a stylistic statement. 

There are also occasions when gussets are used in tailored garments for decorative reasons rather than simply to be able to alter them. Gussets were historically used in shirt creation in order to comfortably fit the shirt to the body. They are sometimes still used in contemporary shirts, although it is often for stylistic purposes, such as at the hem, rather than to fit the shirt to the wearer’s body.

Next month we’ll be asking our tailors to tell us everything we need to know about French bearers. Sign up to our newsletter to make sure you don’t miss it.

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Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.