A History of Pocket Squares

 

It’s impossible to look at the history of pocket squares without considering the lineage of it’s more practical cousin, the handkerchief.

Though handkerchiefs have been used throughout history, they really gained a foothold in Europe in the 1400s. Despite their utilitarian beginnings, once the upper classes started showing an interest in them, handkerchiefs underwent something of a renaissance. They began to be made out of luxury fabrics such as silk and often featured ornate decoration such as embroidery and lace edging. 

When the two piece suit became the norm in the 19th century, gentlemen began putting their handkerchiefs in their jacket breast pocket to keep them separate from the rest of the contents of their pockets. 

By the start of the 20th century, this practice was so well established that different styles of folding these handkerchiefs started to come in and out of fashion, and thus the pocket square was born!

By the 1920s, a pocket square was a must-have accessory for any discerning gentleman, and things stayed that way until the 1960s when Hollywood icons such as Fred Astaire and Cary Grant would rarely have been seen without one.

In the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, the pocket square fell rather out of favour. Luckily, the 21st century brought with it a vintage revival and the pocket square has very definitely been brought out of retirement.

If you’re looking to improve your pocket square game, we’ve got some excellent suggestions for you. Why not try the Three Stairs Fold, the Scallop Fold or the Winged Puff?

To really raise the bar on your pocket square, make sure you choose a high quality silk square with a traditional hand rolled hem, like this Amherst Violet Pocket Square (pictured above). 

Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.