A Brief History of Ties

Photo source

Ties are probably the most frequently worn men’s tailoring accessory. They can vary in cut, fabric, colour and pattern, but what they all have in common is the ability to neatly pull together and finish off a formal outfit.

The inspiration for modern ties were traditional knotted neckerchiefs worn by Croatian mercenaries in the 17th century. Unlike today’s version, these early ties actually served a function: to hold the mercenaries’ shirts closed. 

The neckties of the Croatian mercenaries caught the eye of the French king Louis XIV. Though he was only seven at the time, he clearly had an eye for the sartorial as he began wearing a lace version of these neckties in around 1646.

Once the ‘cravat’, as it became known, was being worn by the king, the trend spread quickly throughout France, and then Europe. Men and women began wearing pieces of cloth around their neck. These became increasingly ornate, and often needed to be held in place by cravat strings.

Cravats remained popular for a couple of hundred years. From these evolved the more formal bow tie and the Ascot tie. Modern neck ties didn’t really come into being until the beginning of the 20th century.

The major breakthrough came in the 1920s when a tie maker in New York came up with an innovative new way of cutting ties. This new fabric cutting technique allowed the creation of neck ties that would ‘spring back’ to their original shape after being cut. These new ties were recognisably the ties we know and love today.

As the 20th century developed, neck ties underwent a few changes. The 1920s saw the emergence of regimental ties, and in the 1930s ties became wider and generally patterned in Art Deco or Art Nouveau designs. This period also saw the invention of the Windsor knot, so named for its creator the Duke of Windsor. 

Ties went ‘skinny’ in the 1950s, then super wide with ‘the kipper’ in the 1970s. Today, there are a wide range of shapes and styles available, depending on the personal preference of the wearer.

If you’re on the hunt for a beautiful tie with a traditional feel, take a look at our collection of LAD Yorkshire neckties. We’re pretty confident that you’ll like what you see. 

 

Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.