A Guide to Traditional British Fabrics

by Peter White
Photo by East Midtown

When you commission a bespoke suit, you get to make all the decisions about exactly how it’s going to look and feel. One of the most important decisions is what type of fabric to have the suit cut from.

In most cases you will need to choose two fabrics: a main outer fabric and a lining. Which lining you choose tends to be more to do with personal taste than anything else: do you want to go for something smart and sober or a flash of something fun? Choosing the outer fabric, however, will have a far greater impact on your finished product. 

Different types of fabric will behave differently and so some will be more comfortable, more formal, warmer, more durable and will retain their shape better than others. Which one you choose will depend on what you want from your tailoring. 

Drawing a blank? Here’s our guide to traditional British fabrics.

Tweed

Think of traditional British tailoring and tweed probably comes to mind. This a rough, closely woven  woollen fabric that is brilliantly durable. It is often woven in a twill or herringbone pattern, usually from a mix of different coloured wools. It is particularly well suited to outerwear as it is hardwearing and water-resistant. It’s also often used for headwear and more informal suits designed for outdoor activities such as shooting.

Cashmere

Cashmere is synonymous with luxury. This is a super soft woollen fabric woven from fibres made from goat hair. Though this fabric originally hails from the Kashmir region, it has been woven here in the UK since the early 1800s. Cashmere fabric is lightweight and strong. It is much softer than sheep wool and is three times more insulating. It is used for knitwear and high end suiting. 

Flannel

Flannel is a soft woven fabric usually made from wool or cotton. It is traditionally made in Wales and has been well used there since the 16th century. Flannel is typically used to make lightweight trousers, tartans and informal shirts. 

Gabardine

Gabardine is a British fabric with an excellent pedigree: it was invented in the 1870s by Thomas Burberry, the very same man who founded the fashion label still popular today. Traditionally it is made from worsted wool fibres and woven as a regular twill. Gabardine is a hardwearing woollen fabric often used for suits. 

Corduroy

Corduroy is another woven fabric. It’s created by using twisted fibres in order to create a tufted effect. The fabric can be made from cotton or wool fibres and is available in a wide range of thicknesses. More substantial corduroy fabric is really warm and can be weather-resistant. It’s often used for less formal trousers and jackets as well as headwear. 

Back to Our Journal

Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.