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Our Journal
  • Ask the Tailor: Should I choose lightweight or heavy cloth?
  • Peter White
Ask the Tailor: Should I choose lightweight or heavy cloth?
Photo by Michael

Each month we ask our expert tailors to address one of your most frequent questions. This month we’re addressing the great fabric issue: should you choose lightweight or heavy cloth?

The joy of investing in bespoke tailoring is that you have full control over your finished suit. Not only will the garment be tailor made to your exact measurements, you’ll also be able to choose the style, the colour, the lining, the buttons and everything else that plays a role in how your suit looks.

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make about your suit is what type of fabric you’d like it to be cut from. This is crucial as the fabric choice will affect the look, feel and fit of your suit. Our expert tailors are always on hand to advise on this issue, and they often find that the question comes down to lightweight or heavy cloth.

Why choose lighter cloth?

Lighter cloths such as cotton and linen can be good choices for certain seasons. If you’re looking for a suit to wear during high summer, this might be the right choice for you. Anything from 7-11oz in weight will be ideal from late spring to early autumn.

Why choose heavier cloth?

Heavier cloths such as wool are more typically found on a tailor’s cutting table. A breathable wool with a weight of 11-12oz will be versatile enough to last you all year round. Heavier cloths tend to create more formal suits that retain their shape at the same time as flattering yours. 

So which is best?

This is one of those questions we can’t give a definitive answer to! We believe that light, medium and heavy weight fabrics all have a place in premium menswear. Heavier cloths typically drape more elegantly and will wear better over time, but some lightweight fabrics, such as linen, can look extremely dapper at the right occasion.

Next month we’ll be considering whether it pays to invest in a bespoke dinner jacket as well as a sports jacket. Sign up to our newsletter to be one of the first to read it.

  • Peter White

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