The Ultimate Checklist for Buying a Bespoke Suit

Buying a bespoke suit? Get the most out of the experience by following this quick checklist on things to consider.

1. The cut

Do you want your suit slim fitting or more roomy for work? When you say slim fitting do you mean slick like the front cover of GQ or a more traditional fit with some shape? Most often, it'll be the latter. At Mullen & Mullen we like to give a waisted finish, that means the jacket is curved inwards at your waist. You always want some room between the jacket and your chest otherwise it'll be uncomfortable and hot to wear. What many don't realise is the chaps wearing very tight jackets on front covers of magazines have bull dog clips pulling them taught.

2. The cloth

Where will you wear the suit? What will the temperature be like? The weight of the cloth determines how warm the suit is and it makes a big difference. If you travel abroad for work perhaps to the Middle East, a light weight (8 - 9oz) will keep you cool. If you're stuck in England with us, a heavier cloth will work better. Most offices are heated these days so medium weight cloths work well (10 - 12oz) here, and if you're outside or in an old Chambers with a leaky draft then heavier cloths will be for you (12 - 16oz).

3. Finishing details

A bespoke suit is tailored for you. No other suit will be exactly the same. You have an opportunity to personalise it beyond the silk lining with finishing details such as a contrasting button hole colour, a Melton undercollar, pockets measured perfectly for your phone, side straps instead of belt loops and more. Ask your tailor at the appointment to go through options and and they'll be more than happy to help.

4. Pockets

Once cut, pockets can't be changed. It's important to have a think about what you'd like. The norm on a jacket are two straight outer pockets, then two breast pockets inside. You can add to that a pen pocket and a ticket pocket, or on the outside have slanted pockets with perhaps a third above on the right hand side (an outer ticket pocket). On the trousers you might like a coin pouch in one pocket, or, a secret cash pocket in your waistband for emergencies.

5. The fitting

Ask your tailor what to expect at the fitting appointment. Usually, you'll see the suit half-finished, the canvassing on the inside and only one sleeve. It can come as a shock to some who are used to off-the-peg suits, but it's a very exciting moment. You see the structure of your suit and how it all comes together. At this stage, only base stitching is used. Your whole suit comes apart again and re-made with any alterations.

Interested in buying a bespoke suit? Get in touch with Mullen & Mullen for an obligation free appointment.