The Biggest Problem With Your Suit (and How You Can Fix It)

Man comically too small for his suit

The world of mens fashion has been standardised. Limited choices, with between 3-5 sizes available. Unfortunately, men are not the same. We are individuals with different requirements and size. 

Here's the problem. In property and retail they say Location, Location, Location. In Tailoring, after decades of experience, I would say "Fit, fit, fit." 

Why you don't like that suit.

Customers tell me that they have suits at home that they don't like. Sometimes they mention the pattern of the cloth, sometimes the "feel" of the suit but most often the fit just isn't right. Feel is very important and fit is key to how a suit feels. Different chaps prefer different fits and feels from their suits, some like a snug, fitted feel so they can "tell they are wearing it" it is hugging them. Some chaps, who spend more time seated, or travelling like a fuller, more relaxed feel which might seem too large to some. What the skilled tailor can do is deliver what the customer is looking for and retain a smart looking suit with a great silhouette.

Does it pass the 5 step stance test?

Thankfully, there's a simple process to follow if you aren't happy with your suit. 

  1. Stand in front of the mirror
  2. Adopt a natural stance - stand straight, wear dress shoes, with arms relaxed by the side. Although not the most relaxed pose, it it the position from which movement flows. 
  3. Look at the shoulder and seat - they should lie flat, without creasing or ripple effects
  4. How is your jacket is buttoned - do the two sides meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward (too loose) or the lower edge flaring in a skirt like fashion (too tight). Does it close with strain, and without creases?
  5. Look at the back of your collar - it shouldn't stand out (float) or bunch in the back.

How did you do? If it doesn't fit in this stance, or feels incorrect to you, see a tailor you trust to work with you to improve the suit.

Hopefully you've now saved your suit. Next time you purchase a suit, think about "Fit, fit, fit" and consider a bespoke suit which will fit perfectly from the start. Measurement only takes around 30 minutes and in 6-8 weeks your suit fit worries will be over.


Go bespoke for the perfect fitting suit:
Any questions? Need advice? Email us at hello@mullenandmullen.co.uk or call our York store on 01904 633 049 (9-5 GMT) for friendly no-obligation advice.