The Dinner Jacket, A Brief History

Victorian Dinner Jacket

No doubt many of you will be reaching into the depths of your wardrobes to bring out the dinner jacket for its annual round of Christmas soirees. So here I take a look at its components and how exactly they found their way into fashion.

The cummerbund has rather exotic origins and was first adopted by British officers in colonial India as a cooler alternative to a waistcoat and are still more commonly warn to summer events. Usually paired with a single breasted dinner jacket they are often pleated. Traditionally these pleats faced upwards and were utilised to hold ticket stubs. Though these days the effect is usually purely aesthetic.

The all important bow tie, originating from Croatian mercenaries in the Prussian war who tied a scarf around their necks to hold together their shirt opening, this was soon adopted by the French middle class and became what we now know as the cravat, eventually morphing into the bow tie by the 19th century.

The brave and skilled amongst you will tie your own. However if the thought of attempting this leaves you reaching for the mulled wine, fear not there are plenty of videos to help you along, I particularly enjoyed this one! . And if all else fails a clip on bow tie and a self tie in your pocket to crack out when collars have been undone will no doubt fool everybody.

Considering Bespoke?

Every commission begins with a conversation. Here are answers to some of the questions we're often asked.

Business suits start from £999 for single or double breasted, and from £1,299 for a three-piece with waistcoat. Wedding suits start from £999, averaging around £1,500 depending on cloth and detailing.

The standard turnaround is 10 weeks from first fitting to collection. An express service is available in 5 weeks for an additional fee.

Yes. Alongside the York and London showrooms, Mullen & Mullen serves Sheffield and Manchester by arrangement, with fittings available at a client's home or office.

An independent, family-run business with over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, we pride ourselves on exceptional value: quality that speaks for itself without the inflated price tag. Fittings are in person and unhurried, built around a conversation about how a garment should look, fit, and feel, from a standout velvet jacket to a quietly sharp business suit.

The York showroom is at Unit 3, Middlethorpe Business Park, Sim Balk Ln, YO23 2BD, open by appointment Monday to Saturday, 9:30–5:30.

The London showroom is at 35 Sackville Street, Mayfair, W1S 3EG, open by appointment only.

Yes. Fittings can take place at a client's home or office instead of a showroom, at no extra call-out fee.

Bespoke shirts start from £180, made from English and European mill cloths with a choice of over 60 collar and cuff styles.

A bespoke suit is cut to a client's own measurements rather than a standard size, through a multiple-fitting process designed to get the fit right before it's finished. Cloth, lining, buttons, and detailing are all chosen individually rather than fixed in advance.

This individual approach also means better quality and longevity. A bespoke suit is made to fit and move with you, making it a garment built to last for years, not seasons.

Yes, alongside our bespoke suits, we also make bespoke shirts, overcoats, velvet dinner jackets, and shooting attire. Whatever the garment, the same approach applies: an unhurried, in-person fitting process built around getting the look, fit, and feel exactly right.